3g rear control arms in 2g

[mko]

Tools:
14mm socket and wrenches
17mm socket and wrenches
rachet
hammer /optional/

Well, after doing the swap of 3g lower control arms and sway bar to 2g, I've decided to swap the upper arms too. It's pretty easy, staight bolt on, no modifications swap and it took me around 1 hour, because I also did the energy bushings. The only advantage that I know of, is that the 3g tubular arms are lighter than the 2g stamped steel, and of course they look better and they are stronger!!!


The picture below says it all, but if you do that please use lots of any penetrating stuff /wd 40, liquid wrench/, because I snaped on of the bolts and it was PITA to get it out.



The 3g arms



2g and 3g arms



Installed:

[ILEAGLE]

wow i never knew 3g suspension fit a 2g.

[DsmRob]

Nice little write up.

[RadDsm]

Nice job, I remember seeing this before.

[greengoblin]

I'm went out and picked up a set of these arms. I'm pretty exicted about them. There are a few things that I noticed.

The 3g arms come in contact with the body of the car just a hair over 1/2" sooner than the 2g arms. I measured this by simple putting the upper arm on. Pushing the upper arm all the way up untill it made contact with the body. Then measured from the center of the bolt holes where the knuckle connects to the floor. I do think you could clearance the body and some of this could be made up if needed. However not all of it. Does it even matter? Well at this point I don't know since my car is so far apart. However I just want to make note that it "could" be an issue.

I also do not think there is any weight savings between the two. I'm going to pic up a scale tomorrow and see. However my hands so no they could be wrong however.

I do feel that the 3g arms are stronger since they are tube steel though and the do look nicer.

Here are a few pics.

[mko]

Looking good. Ok, the control arm doesn't even go that high, so you wont have any problem. I'm 2'' lowered in the rear and it has been like that for a year and havent had any problems.

Also, I know these are about the same weight as 2g control arms, but I guess I forgot to change it when i posted it here. And yes tubular is much stronger than stamped steel.

Why don't you get the lower control arms and rear sway bar off 3g Eclipse, unless you already have upgraded to RM bar or something. There is another tutorial that I made about it.

Nice pick up. I'm glad my tutorial was useful.

[greengoblin]

Thanks for the update and the info was great!

I have a set of RM bars sitting here.

I'm going to be running the lower arms. The car tha I picked up these upper arms off of did not have mounts on the lower arms for a sway bar. I'm assuming that not all 3g came with a sway bar. There are three part numbers for the lower arms. The upper arms are all the same. I'm going to look around for a set of lowers and if I do not find a set at a local yard for cheap I'll just buy them from the dealer since they only run 35.00ea new.

I figured that the arms never made it up that high but I just wanted to point out the difference in the two units. I wish we had that much clearance in the front wells


Kevin

[FenixTX717]

Originally Posted by mko

Tools:
14mm socket and wrenches
17mm socket and wrenches
rachet
hammer /optional/

Well, after doing the swap of 3g lower control arms and sway bar to 2g, I've decided to swap the upper arms too. It's pretty easy, staight bolt on, no modifications swap and it took me around 1 hour, because I also did the energy bushings. The only advantage that I know of, is that the 3g tubular arms are lighter than the 2g stamped steel, and of course they look better and they are stronger!!!


The picture below says it all, but if you do that please use lots of any penetrating stuff /wd 40, liquid wrench/, because I snaped on of the bolts and it was PITA to get it out.



The 3g arms



2g and 3g arms



Installed:

Nice, do you happen to have any part numbers on the upper and lower control arms? I think I might look into this....